GATHERED STITCH

October Stitch of the Month

The Gathered Stitch is a segment of ruched stitches worked in stockinette stitch against segments of garter stitches. The gathered or ruched effect is created by doubling the quantity of stitches at the start of the stockinette stitch section and then reducing the stitches in half before working the segment of garter stitch. 

The fabric tends to become a bit bulky where the stitches are doubled so swatching is a good idea to ensure that desired effect is achieved. Perhaps go up a needle size or two if the stockinette stitch is too bulky.

Gathered Stitch
(Any number of stitches)
Row 1 (RS)  Knit
Row 2 to 6  Knit
Row 7  *Make 1 in each stitch: repeat from * to end
Rows 8, 10, 12  Purl
Rows 9 & 11  Knit
Row 13  *K2tog; repeat from * to end
Repeat row 2 - 13 to form the Gathered Stitch

Abbreviations
K2tog  Knit 2 stitches together
M1  Make one (knit in front and back of stitch)
RS  Right side

PANTONE FASHION COLOR REPORT SPRING 2016

Pantone^® released its Top Ten list of colors for Spring 2016 this past week during New York's Fashion Week. The theme for the Spring season is: A Transporting and Transformative Collection.

"Colors this season transport us to a happier, sunnier place where we feel free to express a wittier version of our real selves. With our culture still surrounded by so much uncertainty, we are continuing to yearn for those softer shade that offer a sense of calm and relaxation. This calming color pallet with a few energetic colors has been influenced by the world of art and the contrast of the urban landscape against lush vegetation." ~ Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute.

This season's pallet was inspired by the world of art as well as the contrast between urban design and lush vegetation. It's all about transporting the wearer to a tranquil environment giving way to curiosity and exploration  

The pallet features six new colors from Pantone: Rose Quartz, Peach Echo, Serenity, Limpet Shell, Lilac Gray and Iced Coffee. 

Rose Quartz - A gentle shade of pale pink tops the charts for Spring 2016

Peach Echo - A warm pinkish-orange
Serenity - A calming sky blue like the name suggests.
Snorkel Blue - A marine-inspired blue that serves as an anchor for the pallet.
Buttercup - Sunshine and happiness in a rich, buttery hue.
Limpet Shell - A cool and tranquil shade of aqua.
Lilac Gray - A soft and subtle neutral with a hint of purple.
Fiesta - A warm, fiery and exciting red.
Iced Coffee - A warm neutral color that combines well with others in the pallet.
Green Flash - A bright green with a yellow undertone.

Angel Sanchez

Dennis Basso

Houghton

Photos from the Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2016. Click here to read the full report from Pantone.

RIDGED LACE STITCH

Stitch of the Month - September 2015

The Ridged Lace stitch pattern creates a vertical ribbed mesh design that has a lovely texture of mesh against textured raised ridges. It's worked in a simple two stitch and two row pattern repeat. 

The stitch pattern would look great used in hats and scarves or on edgings instead of ribbing.

Ridged Lace
(Multiples of 2 stitches)
Row 1 (RS)  K1, *yo, k2tog tbl; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Row 2  P1, *yo, p2tog,; repeat from * to last st, p1.
These 2 rows form the Ridged Lace stitch pattern.

Abbreviations
k2tog tbl - Knit 2 stitches together through back loops
p2tog - Purl 2 stitch together
RS - right side

DOUBLE BASKET STITCH PATTERN

Stitch of the Month – August 2015

The Double Basket stitch pattern creates a lot of texture. The pattern is worked using only knit and purl stitches but the textured effect is quite dramatic. The pattern is reversible making it a good choice for scarves and shawls.

The fabric tends to pull in slightly through the width so it’s a good idea to do a swatch particularly when combining the Double Basket stitch with another stitch pattern.

Double Basket Stitch

(Multiples of 18 stitches + 10)

Row 1 (RS) *K11, p2, k2, p2, k1; repeat from * to last 10 sts; k10

Row 2  P1, k8, p1, *p1, [k2, p2] twice, k8, p1; repeat from * to end

Row 3  *K1, p8, [k2, p2] twice, k1; rep from * to last 10 sts; k1, p8, k1

Row 4  p10, *p1, k2, p2, k2, p11; repeat from * to end

Rows 5 to 8  Repeat rows 1 through 4

Row 9  Knit

Row 10  [p2, k2] twice, p2, *p10, [k2, p2] twice; rep from * to end

Row 11  *[k2, p2] twice, k2, p8; rep from *, repeat fro * to last 10 sts; [k2, p2] twice, k2

Row 12  [p2, k2] twice, p2, *k8, [p2, k2] twice, p2; rep from * to end

Row 13  *[k2, p2] twice, k10; rep from *, repeat from * to last 10 sts; [k2, p2] twice, k2

Rows 14 to 17  Repeat rows 10 through 13

Row 18  Purl

These 18 rows form the Double Basket stitch pattern.

FRILLED EDGING

STITCH OF THE MONTH - July 2015

This lovely single frill adds a nice ruffly edging to knits. It creates a touch of femininity to sweaters, jackets or skirts. This unique edging also looks lovely on shawls, scarves, blankets and throws. 

The frilled edging is worked by casting on four times the number of stitches required for the garment. It is then reduced by 50% on the first row and another 50% on the second row.

The sample shown below has been worked with a cable cast on edge that gives it a strong but flexible cast on.

FRILLED EDGING
(Cast on 4 times the finished number of stitches required)
Row 1 (RS)  *K2, lift 2nd stitch over knit stitch and off RH needle; repeat from * to end
Row 2  *P2tog; repeat from * to end 
These 2 rows form the frilled edging - continue knitting in pattern once the frilled edge has been worked.

ANDALUSIAN STITCH

STITCH OF THE MONTH - June 2015

The Andalusian stitch is a simple pattern that adds a subtle depth and texture to an otherwise plain stockinette stitch. I particularly like using the Andalusian stitch when knitting with a variegated yarn to add a soft but effective texture to the fabric.

Andalusia is a region in Spain where the stitch may have been named for or where the stitch may have originated. 

ANDALUSIAN STITCH
(Multiples of 2 stitches)
Row 1 (RS)  Knit
Row 2  Purl
Row 3  *K1, p1; repeat from * to end
Row 4  Purl
These 4 rows for the Andalusian stitch pattern

THE ART OF KNITTING - Transcending Yarn

I'm excited to announce that I will be presenting at the Toronto Knitters Guild meeting on Wednesday, June 17th.

The Art of Knitting - Transcending Yarn

The presentation will provide an inspirational look at the popularity of knitting and how the current knitting craze has impacted our pop culture and the art world with a focus on art installations and urban street art.

Date

Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Time

7:30 - 9:30 pm

Venue

Innis Town Hall

2 Sussex Avenue

Toronto, ON M5S 1J5

Click here for additional information.

ALPACA FARM AT EIGHTH & MUD

Alpaca is one of my favourite yarns to knit with because it:

• is a natural fiber
• has a silky, soft hand
• has a natural sheen
• is hypo-allergenic which means that people with wool sensitivities can wear it
• is resistant to pilling
• has excellent insulative qualities (great for our winter climate)

Our knitting group decided that a trip to the Alpaca Farm at Eighth and Mud in Stoney Creek would be a great way to spend a Saturday morning giving us an opportunity to see the alpacas, purchase some wonderful yarn and perhaps get a glimpse of the mill. 

Don and Sharon were such welcoming hosts and greeted us when we arrived at the farm. They gave us a tour of the mill and explained the various processes that happen right from the shearing of the alpaca until we begin knitting from a skein of yarn. It is quite a fascinating process and I especially enjoyed watching the process of blending different fibers and colours. 

I purchased some lovely yarn and will be showing off my knits in the coming months. 

We were able to see the alpaca before they are sheared on Saturday, May 30th. This picture shows a few of the females and the different colour variations.

STAGHORN CABLE

STITCH OF THE MONTH - May 2015

The Staghorn Cable is a dramatic stitch pattern that is easy to produce. It's a wide pattern that is worked over 16 stitches against a reverse stockinette stitch background. 

It is important to check the gauge as cable patterns tend to pull the work in so the stitch gauge will change as cable patterns are added to the fabric.

The pattern can also be reversed which will result in an upside down Staghorn Cable pattern.   

STAGHORN CABLE
(Worked over 16 sts)
Row 1 (WS) and every WS row:  Purl
Row 2:  K4, C4B, C4F, k4
Row 4:  K2, C4B, k4, C4F, k2
Row 6:  C4B, k8, C4F
These 6 rows form the Staghorn Cable.

Reversed Staghorn Cable
Row 1 (WS) and every WS row: Purl
Row 2:  C4F, k8, C4B
Row 4:  K2, C4F, k4, C4B, k2
Row 6:  K4, C4F, C4B, k4
These 6 rows form the Staghorn Cable.

Abbreviations
C4B - Cable over 4 stitches to the back. This is worked by sliding 2 stitches from the left needle onto a cable needle. Move the cable needle to behind the left needle. Knit the next 2 stitches from the left needle and then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C4F - Cable over 4 stitches to the front. This is worked by sliding 2 stitches from the left needle onto a cable needle. Move the cable needle in front of the left needle. Knit the next 2 stitches from the left needle and then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
WS - Wrong side.

UNDERSTANDING EASE

The ease refers to the room that is given to allow the fabric to drape and make wearing a knitted garment comfortable. The ease tends to affect the width rather than the length and is typically calculated from the bust or hip measurements. Ease is either added or subtracted from the actual body measurements to accommodate how the garment fits and drapes. Understanding the ease will allow you to knit garments that fit your body and personal style preference.

Example of Positive Ease
Ermanno Scervino
 SS2015 RTW | Luxurious Looks Collection
from FashionStyles.com

Many designers write a pattern and detail the finished measurements which will include the calculation for the ease. Typically, you would want some ease in your garment so you would need to take your bust measurement and add in the ease calculation to give you the finished measurement. Alternatively, some designers write the pattern “to fit” sizes which includes the ease calculation. It is important to read the pattern sizes and review the schematics carefully to select the size that will best fit and flatter your body.

Positive Ease

This will add to the finished measurements making the garment bigger than the actual body measurements. A positive ease allows for movement and has a roomy effect allowing the garment to drape. Sweaters and jackets will typically have a positive ease.

Negative Ease

This will subtract from the finished measurements. A negative ease will be form fitting and will hug the body rather than draping.  Knitted hats would be a good example of an item that would require negative ease so that it stretches to allow it to cling to the wearer’s head.

A General Ease Guideline
Fitting	Very Close	Close	Standard	Loose	Oversized
Inches	-2	0 to +1	+2	+4	+5 or more

The weight of the fabric will also affect the ease. A heavy fabric or a hairy fabric such as mohair will require additional ease of at least 2” while a light-weight fabric may not require any additional ease. The fiber contents can also affect the way the fabric drapes. A yarn with a stiff fiber content will require additional ease to allow for movement while a ribbon yarn may not require any ease at all.

A designer will take into consideration the intended use of the garment, design style, the weight of the yarn as well as the fiber contents when designing a garment.

2-COLOR BRICK STITCH

STITCH OF THE MONTH - April 2015

The 2-color Brick stitch is created using an easy slip stitch technique. The slipped stitch carries a contrasting color vertically to create the 'mortar' for the brick stitch. The colors are changed at the beginning of the row rather than carrying two stands of yarn across the row. 

Two color slip-stitch knitting (also referred to as mosaic knitting) is a great way to add color and it also adds interesting texture. The stitch pattern can be worked either flat or in the round. The stitch pattern also has an interesting look when using variegated yarn, however, there will not be a strong contrast of color.

2 Color Brick Stitch
(Multiples of 6 stitches + 3)
Row 1    (color A) Knit
Row 2 Purl
Row 3    (color B) K4, sl1 *K5, sl1; repeat to last 4 sts, k4
Row 4 K4, yf, sl1, yb, *K5, yf, sl1, yb; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4
Row 5 P4, yb, sl1, yf, *P5, yb, sl1, yf; repeat from * to last 4 sts, P4
Row 6 Repeat row 4
Row 7    (color A) Knit
Row 8 Purl
Row 9    (color B) K1, sl1, *K5, sl1; repeat from * to last st, k1
Row 10 K1, yf, sl1, yb, *K5, yf, sl1, yb; repeat from * to last st, k1
Row 11 P1, yb, sl1, yf, *P5, yb, sl1, yf; repeat form * to last st, p1.
Row 12 Repeat row 10
These 12 rows form the 2-color Brick Stitch

Abbreviations
sl1  slip 1 stitch
yb   yarn back
yf    yarn forward

Notes
Work all slip stitches purlwise.

Color A is the main color and Color B is the color that is carried as the slip stitch.
You should twist the two yarns at the beginning of the 5th and 11th rows to avoid stranding of color B at the edges.