UNDERSTANDING EASE

The ease refers to the room that is given to allow the fabric to drape and make wearing a knitted garment comfortable. The ease tends to affect the width rather than the length and is typically calculated from the bust or hip measurements. Ease is either added or subtracted from the actual body measurements to accommodate how the garment fits and drapes. Understanding the ease will allow you to knit garments that fit your body and personal style preference.

Example of Positive Ease
Ermanno Scervino
 SS2015 RTW | Luxurious Looks Collection
from FashionStyles.com

Many designers write a pattern and detail the finished measurements which will include the calculation for the ease. Typically, you would want some ease in your garment so you would need to take your bust measurement and add in the ease calculation to give you the finished measurement. Alternatively, some designers write the pattern “to fit” sizes which includes the ease calculation. It is important to read the pattern sizes and review the schematics carefully to select the size that will best fit and flatter your body.

Positive Ease

This will add to the finished measurements making the garment bigger than the actual body measurements. A positive ease allows for movement and has a roomy effect allowing the garment to drape. Sweaters and jackets will typically have a positive ease.

Negative Ease

This will subtract from the finished measurements. A negative ease will be form fitting and will hug the body rather than draping.  Knitted hats would be a good example of an item that would require negative ease so that it stretches to allow it to cling to the wearer’s head.

A General Ease Guideline
Fitting	Very Close	Close	Standard	Loose	Oversized
Inches	-2	0 to +1	+2	+4	+5 or more

The weight of the fabric will also affect the ease. A heavy fabric or a hairy fabric such as mohair will require additional ease of at least 2” while a light-weight fabric may not require any additional ease. The fiber contents can also affect the way the fabric drapes. A yarn with a stiff fiber content will require additional ease to allow for movement while a ribbon yarn may not require any ease at all.

A designer will take into consideration the intended use of the garment, design style, the weight of the yarn as well as the fiber contents when designing a garment.

2-COLOR BRICK STITCH

STITCH OF THE MONTH - April 2015

The 2-color Brick stitch is created using an easy slip stitch technique. The slipped stitch carries a contrasting color vertically to create the 'mortar' for the brick stitch. The colors are changed at the beginning of the row rather than carrying two stands of yarn across the row. 

Two color slip-stitch knitting (also referred to as mosaic knitting) is a great way to add color and it also adds interesting texture. The stitch pattern can be worked either flat or in the round. The stitch pattern also has an interesting look when using variegated yarn, however, there will not be a strong contrast of color.

2 Color Brick Stitch
(Multiples of 6 stitches + 3)
Row 1    (color A) Knit
Row 2 Purl
Row 3    (color B) K4, sl1 *K5, sl1; repeat to last 4 sts, k4
Row 4 K4, yf, sl1, yb, *K5, yf, sl1, yb; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4
Row 5 P4, yb, sl1, yf, *P5, yb, sl1, yf; repeat from * to last 4 sts, P4
Row 6 Repeat row 4
Row 7    (color A) Knit
Row 8 Purl
Row 9    (color B) K1, sl1, *K5, sl1; repeat from * to last st, k1
Row 10 K1, yf, sl1, yb, *K5, yf, sl1, yb; repeat from * to last st, k1
Row 11 P1, yb, sl1, yf, *P5, yb, sl1, yf; repeat form * to last st, p1.
Row 12 Repeat row 10
These 12 rows form the 2-color Brick Stitch

Abbreviations
sl1  slip 1 stitch
yb   yarn back
yf    yarn forward

Notes
Work all slip stitches purlwise.

Color A is the main color and Color B is the color that is carried as the slip stitch.
You should twist the two yarns at the beginning of the 5th and 11th rows to avoid stranding of color B at the edges.

TORONTO KNITTERS FROLIC 2015

Spring is on its way...with the announcement of the much anticipated 18th Annual Toronto Knitters Frolic!

Dates
Saturday, April 25th - Workshops and marketplace
Sunday, April 26th - Workshops only

Location
Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre
6 Garamond Court
Toronto, ON

Click here for workshops and vendor information.

EYELET MOCK CABLES

Stitch of the Month - March 2015

These lovely eyelet mock cables are created without the use of a cable needle. The 'cables' are made by passing a slipped stitch over two stitches against a reverse stockinette stitch background. A yarn over is worked in the following row creating an eyelet in the center of the cable. 

The eyelet mock cables can be worked over many stitches creating continuous rows of cables (as photographed) which will create a ribbing effect that will give elasticity through the width of the fabric. The cables can also be worked as a design feature working a single cable pattern.

Eyelet Mock Cables
(multiples of 5 sts + 2)
Row 1  (RS) P2, *sl1, k2, psso the 2 k sts, p2; repeat from * to end.
Row 2  K2, *p1, yo, p1, k2; repeat from * to end
Row 3  P2, *k3, p2; repeat from * to end
Row 4  K2, *p3, k2' repeat from * to end
These 4 rows form the Eyelet Mock Cables

Notes
Only count stitches on 3rd and 4th rows.
Take the yarn to the back before the slipped stitch.

PANTONE FASHION COLOR REPORT FALL 2015

Pantone^® released its top 10 colors for Fall 2015 this week during New York’s Fashion Week. The theme for the season is An Evolving Color Landscape.

A beautiful color palette comprised of cool neutrals paired with warm, rich colors found in nature from the tropics to safaris. The palette is spiced up with an inviting orange and vibrant amethyst to round out the fall colors. The colors can easily be worn by both women and men.

Juxtaposition of color from opposite sides of the spectrum emphasizes poise and confidence on the runway. The Fall 2015 palette is rooted in multi-faceted, androgynous color that can be worn to portray effortless sophistication across men's and women's fashion. It is the first time we are seeing a truly unisex color palette. ~ Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director, Pantone Color Institute

Dried Herb - A safari inspired earthy olive-green shade.

Desert Sage - A cool greenish-gray neutral.

Stormy Weather - A powerful cool blue-gray reminiscent of the sky on an overcast day.

Oak Buff - A warm, golden yellow.

Marsala - The 2015 Color of the Year is a rich, robust, warm red-brown.

Biscay Bay - An elegant teal bringing to mind tropical waters.

Reflecting Pond - A powerful and cooling blue.

Cadmium Orange - A warm and sultry orange with a 70's vibe.

Cashmere Rose  - An upscale soft pink hue.

Amethyst Orchid  - A vibrant orchid that is both unique and exciting.

Click here to read the full report from Pantone.

BAMBOO STITCH

Stitch of the Month - February 2015

The Bamboo stitch pattern is created by passing a yarn-over over two knit stitches creating strands that runs horizontally across the fabric. The overall effect resembles a woven fabric. While it is a not truly reversible stitch pattern, the reverse side of the fabric has an interesting and appealing texture. This simple stitch pattern that is worked over an even number of stitches over a two-row repeat has a lot of texture and depth.

This stitch pattern would look lovely using a variegated yarn and would alleviate any problems with pooling that can sometimes occur with variegated yarns.

I love simplicity and the texture of this stitch.

Bamboo Stitch

(Multiples of 2 sts)

Row 1    K1, *yo, k2, pass yo over both sts; repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 2    Purl

These 2 rows form the Bamboo stitch pattern.

FROST FLOWERS

Stitch of the Month - January 2015

Frost Flowers is a beautiful lace pattern that can be found in numerous stitch dictionaries under an assortment of names including Spanish Lace and Shooting Star. According to Barbara Walker, Frost flowers is ...an old pattern, dating from at least the early nineteenth century. 

The lace looks quite intricate when worked as an all-over stitch pattern but looks equally stunning when featured as inset panel. The pattern looks complicated but is rather quite easy. It's worked over a four-row pattern repeated twice and then a second four-row pattern repeated twice.

I have a special fondness for this stitch pattern. When I was about 16 years old, I bought some beautiful turquoise yarn and I designed a knee-length pullover working Frost Flowers as an all-over lace pattern with a ribbed turtle-neck collar. That was the first time that I was commissioned to knit a garment for someone else after they had seen my sweater. I loved it and wore it constantly.

Frost Flowers Stitch Pattern

(Multiples of 34 stitches + 2)
Row 1 (RS)  K1, *k3, k2tog, k4, yo, p2, [k2, yo, skp] 3 times, p2, yo, k4, skp, k3; rep to last st; k1
Row 2 K1, *p2, p2tog-b, p4, yo, p1, k2 [p2, yo, p2tog] 3 times, k2, p1, yo, p4, p2tog, p2; rep from * to last st; k1
Row 3 K1, *k1, k2tog, k4, yo, k2, p2, [k2, yo, skp] 3 times, p2, k2, yo, k4, skp, k1; rep from * to last st; k1
Row 4 K1, *p2tog-b, p4, yo, p3, k2, [p2, yo, p2tog] 3 times, k2, p3, yo, p4, p2tog; rep from * to last st; k1
Rows 5 thru 12 Repeat row 1 to 4 twice more
Row 13 K1, *yo, skp, k2, yo, skp, p2, yo, k4, skp, k6, k2tog, k4, yo, p2, k2, yo, skp, k2; rep from  * to last st; k1
Row 14 K1, *yo, p2tog, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, p1, yo, p4, p2tog, p4, p2tog-b, p4, yo, p1, k2, p2, yo, p2tog, p2; rep from to last st; k1
Row 15 K1, *yo, skp, k2, yo, skp, p2, k2, yo, k4, skp, k2, k2tog, k4, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, skp, k2; rep from * to last st; k1
Row 16 K1, *yo, p2tog, p2, yo, p2tog, k2, p3, yo, p4, p2tog, p2tog-b, p4, yo, p3, k2, p2, yo, p2tog, p2; rep from * to last st; k1
Row 17 thru 24 Repeat rows 13 to 16 twice more.
These 24 rows form the Frost Flowers stitch pattern.

Abbreviations

k2tog - knit 2 stitches together
p2tog - purl 2 stitches together

p2tog-b - purl 2 together through back loops
RS - right side
skp - slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over
yo - yarn over

Pantone has named MARSALA as the Colour of the Year for 2015!

Pantone^® named MARSALA 18-1438 as the Colour of the Year for 2015 
December 4^th, 2014

Marsala is described as "a naturally robust and earthy wine red" that will translate easily to fashion, beauty, home fashions and interiors.

This universally appealing colour is a rich red-brown with blue undertones which embodies both warmth and sophistication. Marsala is a natural, earthy colour that is sultry and seductive.

"It's a colour that you can mix with what you already own," said Leatrice Eisman, the executive director of the Pantone Institute. "You can add just a touch of it. That's the intent and purpose. It is not the colour that swallows the world." As an accent it pairs well with warmer taupes and grays, golden yellows, turquoise and teal as well as a vibrant range of blues.

FASHION

Designers such as Daniel Silverstain, Dennis Basso and Hervé Léger by Max Azria featured Marsala during the Spring 2015 runway shows. Blake Lively was stunning when she wore it on the red carpet during the Cannes Film Festival in May 2014. Expect to see this hue paired together with other colours in floral prints, plaids and stripes. Fashion accessories such as sunglasses, purses, sunglasses and shoes will also feature Marsala.

Blake Lively

BEAUTY

Marsala is a flattering colour for many skin tones. This deep wine is an elegant hue for lipstick and nail polish but is also flattering as an eyeshadow. Sephora will launch its Marsala Layering Lip Collection and Shimmering Marsala Cheek Trio in December 2014. 

Sephora's Marsala Collection

HOME FASHIONS/ACCESSORIES
This rich colour will add elegance to any room. It adds warmth and elegance when used as a home fashion accent paired with warm taupes and grays and vibrant blues.

Home Fashions

Marsala is a fortified Italian wine that is produced in the sunny region of Marsala on the coast of Sicily. 

ST. JOHN'S WORT LACE

STITCH OF THE MONTH - December 2014

St. John's Wort is an all-over slipped-stitch lace pattern that resembles small flowers. The pattern is worked over a four-row repeat. Slipped stitches are worked over two stitches on the right side which decreases the number of stitches on the row. These stitches are increased with a yarn over on the purl (wrong side) rows. Therefore, the stitches should only be counted once a purl row has been completed.

St. John's Wort is an herbal plant known for its anti-depressant properties and studies have shown that knitting can be a natural anti-depressant. How perfect there would be a lovely knitting stitch named after this medicinal plant.

St. John's Wort Lace Stitch
(Multiples of 6 stitches plus 2)
Row 1 (RS)  k1, *sl1, k2, psso, k3; repeat from * to last st, k1
Row 2  P5, *yo, p5; repeat from * to last 2 sts, yo, p2
Row 3  k1, *K3, sl1, k2, psso; repeat from * to end, k1
Row 4  P2, *yo, p5; repeat from * to end
These 4 rows form the St. John's Wort Lace Stitch Pattern

KNITWEAR TRENDS | FALL/WINTER 2014-2015

Knitwear was well represented on the runways this season. There are a few emerging trends for the fall/winter season.

ALL-OVER KNITS

Wearing knits from head-to-toe is a prominent trend this season with designers such as Céline, Michael Kors, Stella McCartney and Calvin Klein all showing all-over knits on the runways. The look features wearing scarves with elongated sweaters, knit dresses, and pairing sweaters with knitted trousers. The overall look is feminine, relaxed, slightly over-sized and comfy. 

Stella McCartney

Michael Kors

PONCHOS
Ponchos have a cozy, relaxed and warm feel - like being wrapped in a warm blanket or throw. Strong influences of forklore and cables are featured for both pattern and colors.

Barbara Bui

Tommy Hilfiger

MODERN SILHOUETTES

There is a trend towards modern silhouettes in unconventional shapes that are seen as statement pieces. 

Next Generation

Balmain

A great year to be a knitter with such wonderful inspiration!

VAN DYKE STAGGERED EYELETS

STITCH OF THE MONTH - November 2014

The Van Dyke stitch is essentially a lace chevron design. This variation staggers the v-shaped eyelets that are prominently featured in the Van Dyke stitch for an interesting overall effect. There are numerous variations of the Van Dyke stitch which include edgings and insert panels. 

This stitch would work well for baby, shawls and socks.

Staggered Van Dyke Stitch

(Multiples of 10 stitches + 2)

Row 1 (RS)  K1 *yo, skp, k8; repeat from * to last st, k1
Row 2 and all WS rows  Purl       
Row 3  K1, * K1, yo, skp, k5, k2tog, yo* to last st, k1
Row 5  K1, *k2, yo, skp, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 7  K1, *k5, yo, skp, k3; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 9  K1, *k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, skp, k2; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 11  K1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, skp, k1; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 12  Purl

These 12 rows form the Staggered Van Dyke Eyelet stitch.

Abbreviations

yo         yarn over

skp       slip, knit, pass slip stitch over

k2tog    knit 2 together